|
| |
Shopping for a new floor can be confusing, and
frustrating if you are not prepared.
 | Before making a trip to your local flooring store:
 | Draw a simple outline of the room(s) and where
the room entrances are located.
|
| Carefully measure the room(s) you want to cover
with new flooring. Use a metal measuring tape and write down both the
width and length of the room(s). Be sure to include closets and any
other areas that will need flooring.
|
| Make a note of what are the adjoining rooms and
what flooring is currently in those areas.
|
| Make a note about how much natural sunlight
enters the room, which direction the room faces, and any sliding patio
doors.
|
| If possible, make a note of what is under the
existing flooring? (Sometimes if you have an forced-air heating system
with in-floor heating ducts you can pull up the heat vent cover and look
inside to get an idea as to what is really underneath your existing
flooring.) |
|
| Whenever possible take along any furniture,
wallpaper, and drapery fabrics from the room(s).
|
| Decide what you want done with existing baseboard
and moldings.
|
| Think about answers to these questions to help you
select the right floor for your needs:
| How much traffic does this room get each day?
|
| What is the room used for?
|
| How many children and pets do you have?
|
| Do you have a certain color in mind?
|
| What are your personal expectations for the
flooring? How long do you want it to last? |
|
| Be sure to ask if the price quoted includes:
| all subfloor preparation
|
| all installation costs
|
| removal of existing flooring, if needed
|
| moving of all furniture and appliances
|
| all necessary materials for installing your new
floor. |
|
| Ask about the installers:
| Are they independent mechanics, or do they work
for the store?
|
| Ask who's insurance covers installation errors?
|
| Ask if all the installation materials are the
manufacturer's recommended products, so the warranty will not be voided. |
|
| Before choosing a floor have the salesperson review
with you the manufacturer's warranty information as well as the
manufacturer's care and maintenance procedures. Keep a copy of both
brochures for your reference.
|
| Be sure to get all quotes in writing, including
amount of flooring needed, and a rough diagram of how they will install the
flooring and where all seams will fall.
|
| Be sure to understand who is responsible for
removing toilets, portable dishwashers, and any other fixed room fixtures. |
The Old "Bait and Switch"
All carpet manufacturers have sample books or
"deck boards" as they are referred to. These books may have one large
carpet sample on the front, and all of the colors in smaller samples inside the
book. Some books may have two, three or even four large samples on the front.
When there is more than one sample on the front of the book, each one is
usually a different thickness or "quality". Usually these qualities
differ only in thickness, and sometimes there is not much difference that you
can see or feel. But there is always a difference in cost.
For example, let's say carpet sample book has three samples on the front -
grades 1,2, and 3. Three (3) is the thickest one. What happened is, you
choose 3. The salesman writes 2 on the contract, but charged you for 3.
Or, he writes 3 on the contract, but sends out 2, figuring that you probably
won't notice the difference.
Over Estimating
It's one of the oldest tricks in the book. For example, let's say you
actually have 80 square yards of carpet. The salesman tells you that you need 90
square yards. You now paid for 10 extra yards of carpet that he will not even
order.. 10 yards x's $20 per yard is $200 pure profit.
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| Immediately blot up as much
of the liquid stain as possible using a soft, white, absorbent material like a
towel or napkin. Though most of the carpets produced today are treated
with stain-resistant treatments, no carpet can be said to be completely stain-proof. And
longer the stain remains in the carpet, more permanently it sets into it. |
| Scrape away the solid or semi-solid stain using a
blunt spatula or spoon. Never use a knife as it's sharp edges could harm the pile
fibers. |
| Never scrub or brush a stain; scrubbing
can harm the fibers and have the adverse reaction of making the stain set in to the carpet
or rug. |
| Vacuum away as much of the solid stain as possible.
|
| Pretest the spot removal agent on an inconspicuous
area of the carpet. Follow the instructions carefully. Apply a few drops to
each color in the carpet. Press a clean, white towel or napkin lightly over it for
approximately 30 seconds. Check both the towel (or napkin) and the carpet for color
transfer, color change or any other damage. Try another spot removal if you notice
any change. |
| To clean the spot, apply a small amount of spot
removal agent to the soft, white, absorbent material and gently apply to the stain,
working from the edges towards the center of the spot to prevent it from spreading.
Continue as long as the stain is getting transferred onto the towel. Apply more solution
to a fresh area on the towel and repeat the process as long as the stain is being removed.
Patience is a virtue as far as this step is concerned! |
| In cases where you need to apply more than one spot
removal agent in a sequence, continue applying the first spot removal agent
as long as there is any improvement; then move on to the next one. |
| After the spill has been removed completely, rinse
out the affected area with water and blot dry to remove the cleaning solution
completely as any residue may attract soil and cause damage to the carpet. To effectively
blot up the water, you may use clean, dry towels weighed down by flat, heavy objects like
a book; keep changing the towel as they become saturated. |
| Do not to overwet the area. Overwetting of
carpets while cleaning may cause damage to the carpet.
|
Important! If you have a stain resistant carpet, call us
at Classic Services for special instructions.
Formula 1
1/2 pint cold water
1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent. DO NOT use a liquid automatic dishwashing
detergent or a detergent containing bleach.
Mix detergent and cold water together in a glass. Moisten the spot with a teaspoonful of
the mixture, without getting the carpet too wet. Gently rub the spot with the spoon,
working from the outside of the spot toward the center. This keeps the spot from
spreading. To complete removal, wet a white unstarched cloth with clean water and wipe up
as much of the spot and mixture as possible. It the spot has not been totally removed,
repeat the steps. When finished, place dry absorbent cloths over the area and apply
pressure with your foot to blot up the moisture.
Formula 2
1 teaspoon white vinegar
3 teaspoons cold water
Mix ingredients in a cup or glass. Using a teaspoon of the mixture, apply it to the spot,
gently working the spot from the outer edges toward the middle with a clean, white,
unstarched cloth. Blot up moisture wth dry cloths. Dampen another clothin clean cold water
and wipe the spot again. Place dry cloths over the area and apply pressure with your foot
to soak up the moisture.
Formula 3
1 cup cold water
1 tablespoon baking soda
Mix and apply in the same manner as Formula 2. This solution is especially good for
acidic spots.
Formula 4
Nonflammable dry cleaning fluid can be
found at most drug or hardware stores. This solvent should not be mixed with any other
solution. It is especially good for cleaning tar, oil, adhesive tape and chewing gum. In
general, it can be used for any dark spot other formulas will not remove. However, before
using any solvent on carpet or upholstery, test for color fastness. Pour a small amount of
solvent on a clean white cloth. Gently rub the cloth on a scrap piece of carpet of
upholstery material. If you DON'T have a scrap piece, perform the test in an
inconspicuous area such as a closet or lower part of upholstery. If any color appears on
the cloth after rubbing it, DO NOT USE the solvent.
To use the dry cleaning fluid, follow the safety
precautions on the label. Gently rub the spot, working from the outer edges to the middle.
The spot will absorb into the cloth. To soak up extra moisture, place a clean towel over
the area and press with your foot.
After you have these formulas, you can use them for these
spots:
TYPES of
STAINS
Animal Accidents -If necessary, remove any solid matter. Blot up
liquids by placing dry towels over the problem area and apply pressure with your foot.
Repeat until the carpet is as dry as possible. Apply Formula 2 according to
directions, and let dry completely. Finish with Formula 3. If a color change has occurred
call Classic Services at (609) 953-0472.
Beverages -With a teaspoon, apply a small amount of clear
cold water. Blot up moisture with a dry, white, unstarched cloth. If any spot remains,
apply Formula 1 followed by Formula 3. For coffee and tea, use Formula 1
followed with Formula 2.
Blood - Apply a small amount of cold water with a teaspoon.
Blot up moisture with a dry, white unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1. If a
yellow spot results, apply a few drops of peroxide and let stand for about three minutes.
Then apply Formula 2 according to directions.
Butter & Other
Fats - Apply Formula 4 with a
teaspoon. Wipe with dry, white, unstarched cloth.
Chewing Gum - Apply Formula 4 to the gum and let stand four
minutes. Use a spoon to lift gum from carpet. If it still sticks, repeat the treatment.
Follow up with Formula 1.
Cosmetics - Apply Formula 4 followed by Formula 1.
If necessary, apply Formula 2.
Food - Scrape off as much as possible with a spoon.
Apply Formula 4 with a teaspoon and wipe with a dry, white, unstarched cloth.
Follow with Formula 1.
Fruit Juice - Wipe the area with a clean white, unstarched
cloth moistened with cold water. Apply Formula 1 and follow up with Formula 3.
Grease - Apply Formula 4 and wipe with dry, white,
unstarched cloth. Repeat application. If spot remains, use Formula 1.
Ice Cream and
Deserts - Moisten a clean, white,
unstarched cloth with cold water and wipe the area. Then apply Formula 1.
Ink (Except Ball
Point) - Ink spots vary in
difficulty, depending upon the composition of the ink. Too much detergent and water can
cause the spot to spread. Use white tissue to absorb as much ink as possible. Then sponge
the area with a damp, white, unstarched cloth, working from the edges of the spot toward
the center. Repeat with fresh cloths, then apply Formula 1. Repeat until spot is
gone.
If a brown or yellow spot is left, this indicates that the
ink contains iron. Please call us at Classic Services. Professionals should also remove a
very large ink spot. But even they cannot guarantee that permanent ink stains can be
removed.
Ink (Ball Point) - Apply Formula 4 and sponge with a dry,
white, unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1.
Nail Polish &
Household Cement - Use nail polish
remover to remove these spots. Follow by using Formula 1.
CAUTION: Before applying nail polish remover to the spot, usa a
small carpet sample or inconspicuous place to test the carpet. Nail polish remover can
damage some carpet by creating color changes or fiber distortion.
Oil - In cases of large amounts of oil, the most
practical remedy is to call us at Classic Services. A small spot can be cleaned with Formula
4, applied with a teaspoon. Wipe with dry, white, unstarched cloth. Repeat if needed.
Then apply Formula 1.
Paint & Varnish - Large spills should be cleaned by Classic
Services. Call immediately after the accident happens. For small spills of fresh latex
paint, use Formula 1. For oil-based paint, apply a few drops of turpentine or mineral
spirits use a teaspoon, and blot with a dry, white, unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula
4, then Formula 1. Any paint that has dried is almost impossible to remove.
Sugar & Candy - Scrape off surface with a dull knife. Wipe
with cold water, using a clean, white, unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1.
Wax - Small wax spots can sometimes be removed using Formula
4. For heavy wax build up, place a dry, white, unstarched towel over the affected area
and lightly touch it with a warm iron. As the wax melts, it will be absorbed into the
towel. Sometimes it will be necessary to change to another towel, depending on how much
wax there is to be removed. Be careful not to overheat and melt synthetic carpeting.
For help with any stains
not mentioned here, please contact a reputable carpet cleaner.
NOTICE: We
cannot be held responsible for damage to carpet caused by using these
formula
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Disclaimer: This information is designed
to help you remove your stains. Before using any chemical cleaners on your
carpet, test it in on a small sample or inconspicuous place to test the fabric.
We cannot be held responsible for any damage caused by using any of the
following formulas.
Here we tell you how to remove everyday stains, from candle wax,
chocolate and lipstick, to gravy, salad dressing and red wine. In most cases,
your professional drycleaner can easily remove these stains if you point them
out.
Caution:
1. Stain removal is best accomplished when the stain is still
fresh. Do not put anything away when it is stained or soiled.
2. You can often remove small stains satisfactorily by home
methods. We offer this guide to help you do so, but it is generally better to
let your drycleaner do the work when . . . the stains are numerous or
cover a large area they require dry cleaning chemicals not available to the
consumer the fabric is fragile or highly sized by the manufacturer you are not
sure what caused the stain you are unsure whether the garment is colorfast
3. Blot, don't rub. Rubbing can cause abrasion and damage the
finish of your fabric.
4. Always read and follow the care instructions on the garment's
label. Follow these General Rules for stain removal.
5. Never use nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or
modacrylic, as they will dissolve.
Common Stains
| Butter - Butter is an oily substance which can best be removed in
the dry cleaning process. However, for light stains, pre-treat with a liquid
laundry detergent. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply liquid
detergent to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry;
rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying,
inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains. |
| Candle Wax - Candle wax consists of a wax and a dye, both are
easily removed by a professional drycleaner. You may be able to remove the
wax, but removing the dye in the wax without ruining your garment is the
hard part. |
| For a small area, try hardening with ice, then removing surface wax with a
dull knife. For the remaining wax, place stain between clean paper towels
and press with a warm iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more
wax and to prevent transferring the stain. Place stain face down on clean
paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with "Shout" or "Spray
and Wash"; blot with paper towels. Let dry, then launder. Note: If any
color remains, re-launder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric. |
| Chocolate - A drycleaner can pre-treat your garment to easily
remove this stain in the drycleaning process. As a home remedy, treat the
stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a product containing enzymes.
Launder. If stain remains, re-launder with a bleach that is safe for the
fabric. |
| Coffee - Plain or with sugar/sweetener - Your professional
drycleaner will use a tannin remover before cleaning. In an emergency
situation, flush stain immediately with cool water or soak for 30 minutes in
cool water. Blot, don't rub, the stain with detergent and launder. Launder
with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap can make stain permanent. |
| (with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is best removed by
drycleaning. For a home remedy, flush stain immediately with cool water if
possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Sponge stain with a
drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot, don't rub, with detergent, then launder
with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent
or at least more difficult to remove. Pretreat or soak older stains with an
enzyme product, then launder. |
| Cooking Oil - Light stains can be pretreated with a spray stain
remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a detergent booster. Place heavy
stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning liquid to the back of
stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest
water safe for that fabric. Before drying, inspect, and repeat the treatment
and washing if the stain remains. |
| Cream Sauce - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold
water before washing. If stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off any
crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water using a
detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain
remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. |
| Cheese Sauce - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold
water before washing. If stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off any
crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water using a
detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain
remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. |
| Dye Stains - Dye stains can be very difficult to remove. Soak the
garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment
care label and check for color fastness first. If use of bleach is
acceptable, soak and then rinse. If the stain remains and the garment is
colorfast, soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine
bleach and water.
Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the garment or cause
irreversible damage. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness
before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching,
it cannot be removed by bleaching, and any further exposure to bleach will
weaken the fabric.
To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of
bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this
solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand
two minute, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the
product. Powered bleaches have directions for doing colorfastness tests.
There are a number of dye removers, such as one from Rit, which are
available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will take out
fabric colors as well as the stain.
|
| Gravy - Treat the stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a
product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains, relaunder with bleach
that is safe for the fabric. |
| Ink (solvent soluble) - Ink stains can be difficult to impossible
to remove. This stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However,
if you must try it yourself, you generally need to act fast to have a
chance. |
| Sponge the area around the stain with alcohol before applying it directly
on the stain. Next, place the stain face down on clean, white, paper towels.
Apply alcohol to the back of the stain. Replace towels frequently. Continue
until no further ink is removed. Then rinse thoroughly. Rub with heavy duty
liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for fabric, with bleach
safe for fabric. |
| Instead of alcohol, you could try using drycleaning solvent, such as
Carbona, Energine, Goddard's. (Be sure to read and follow the instructions
on the product label. These products are toxic.) Also, try a hidden inside
seam first, to be sure the garment dye won't be removed. |
| Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. You should
be able to find this in areas where package dyes are sold. For stains on
colored fabrics, check for dye stability in a hidden area before using. |
| Ink (permanent) - Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.
This stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However, if you
must try it yourself, you generally need to act fast to have a chance. The
first step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove
excess ink. Allow to dry. Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent (read
the directions carefully, it is toxic). Allow the fabric to dry.Work a
liquid detergent into the stain with your finger. Rinse. Soak the stain in
warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added.
Rinse and repeat if stain is lessening. Launder. |
| Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. Follow
package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye fastness
in a hidden are before using. |
| Lipstick - Place face down on paper towels. Sponge area with
drycleaning solvent, or use a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels
frequently; rinse. Work light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until
outline is removed; launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric
bleach, because it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid
chlorine bleach for tough stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach. |
| Make-up - Place face down on paper towels. Sponge area with
drycleaning solvent, or use a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels
frequently; rinse. Work light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until
outline is removed; launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric
bleach, because it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid
chlorine bleach for tough stains, if fabrics are colorfast to bleach. |
| Mildew - Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth,
darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cellulosic fiber and
can also damage manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening
of fibers and fabrics. |
| To treat mildew first brush or shake off mildewed area. Pretreat stain
with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in hot water with heavy duty
detergent and bleach safe for fabric. Let dry in the sun. Badly mildewed
fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with
dry cleaning fluid, i.e., Carbona, Energine, Goddard's (but, carefully read
and follow the instructions on the label, these are extremely toxic). |
| Milk - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water
before washing. If stain is dried or old, scrape or bush off and crusted
matter and soak in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak.
Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains, soak an additional 30
minutes and rewash. On dryclean only items, see your local drycleaner. |
| Nail Polish - For stains from nail polish, apply nail polish
remover to the back of the stain while laying the fabric on white absorbent
towels. Replace towels frequently. Then rinse and launder. Never use nail
polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, as they will dissolve. |
| Return to index of stains. |
| Odors - Your professional drycleaner can remove most odors in the
normal process of drycleaning. For washable garments, most odors should be
removed by normal laundering. For stubborn odors sprinkle the clothes with
baking soda, let stand, and then vacuum. |
| Perspiration - Perspiration, if allowed to stay in fabric, will
permanently stain and weaken the fabric. Aluminum chlorides in
antiperspirants will also weaken the fabric under the arms. Controlled use
of antiperspirants and frequent washings immediately after wear can minimize
this type of damage. Wearing an undershirt or perspiration pads, can also
keep stains off your shirts or blouses. |
| These types of stains can be difficult to remove. And, the build-up of
aluminum chloride or zinc salts may be impossible to remove. Old stains are
more difficult to treat because they have been set, particularly from being
heated in the dryer. For washable fabric, treat light stains with a liquid
detergent and then launder. Pretreat heavy stains with a prewash stain
remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes. Launder using an all-fabric bleach.
If fabric has discolored, you might try treating fresh stains with ammonia
and old stains with vinegar. |
| Rust - Removing rust stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be
removed in normal laundering. Your professional drycleaners has access to
rust removing chemicals that are not available to the consumer. |
| Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a retail rust remover.
Follow package instructions. Do not let dry between applications. Rinse
thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry detergent and oxygen bleach,
following directions. |
| Do not use chlorine bleach, chlorine bleach will make the stains
permanent. |
| Salad Dressing (oil-based)- Most oil-based stains can be easily
removed by your professional drycleaner. In an emergency, light stains can
be pretreated with a spray stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a
detergent booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply
cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air
dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying,
inspect, and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains. |
| Smoke, Soot - Your drycleaner has special odor-neutralizing
chemicals to make your garments smell clean and fresh. At home, shake off
excess soot outdoors. Launder in washing machine using a heavy-duty
phosphate-based detergent or heavy-duty liquid as recommended by
manufacturer, one cup of water conditioner, and 1/2 cup of all-fabric
bleach. Use water setting appropriate for the fabric. Air dry. Inspect for
smoke odor. Repeat as necessary. Three or four washes may be needed for
cottons and cotton blends. |
| Tar - Don't try to remove this stain at home. Drycleaners have
solvents to dissolve tar that are not available for home use. |
| Tea
(plain or with sugar/sweetener) - Your professional drycleaner will use a
tannin remover before cleaning. In an emergency situation, flush stain
immediately with cool water; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Blot,
don't rub, the stain with detergent and launder. Launder with bleach that is
safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing
natural soap), since soap can make stain permanent. |
| (with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is best removed by
drycleaning. For a home remedy, flush stain immediately with cool water if
possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Sponge stain with a
drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot, don't rub, with detergent, then launder
with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent
or at least more difficult to remove. Pretreat or soak older stains with an
enzyme product, then launder. |
| Urine - If the care label in your garment says Dryclean-only, do
not attempt a home remedy. On washable fabrics, soak stain in cool water.
Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of
powdered detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric,
using a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent
or at least more difficult to remove. |
| Wine - Your drycleaner uses special chemicals to remove the tannin
found in red wine from your garments. At home, soak stain in cool water.
Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of
powdered detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric,
using a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or
detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent
or at least more difficult to remove. Note: Older stains might respond to
treatment with an enzyme product, then laundering. |
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| Make sure that the contractor has and established place of
business.
|
| Call the NJ Division of Consumer Affairs Action Line at
(201) 648-3295 to check out the firm's outstanding complaint record.
|
| Ask for credit references.
|
| Ask for copies of insurance.
|
| Get a written statement that all building code
requirements will be met and denote who will be responsible for obtaining
building permits.
|
| Ask for the names of at least two satisfied customers.
|
| Get at least two estimates.
|
| Be suspicious of bids that are unrealistically to low.
|
| Be wary of contracts that permit the use of
"equivalent" materials.
|
| Don't cut corners with cheap materials or
"bargain" prices.
|
| Don't pay in full for any work in advance.
|
| Be sure that the contractor's guarantees for covers
workmanship and materials.
|
| Before signing the contract, read the fine print and make
sure everything is in writing!
|
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| New Jersey Remodelers Assc. -- (609) 365-NJRA
|
| Burlington County Office of Consumer Affairs -- (609)
265-5190
|
| Camden County Office of Consumer Affairs -- (609) 757-8397
|
| Gloucester County Office of Consumer Affairs -- (609)
853-3349
|
| New Jersey Division of Consumer Affairs (201)
648-3622
|
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When you are looking to purchase a home, the following guidelines should help
you through the process:
| When purchasing a home, look through the open house listings to get
a feel for home pricing by size and neighborhood.
| Select a Real Estate Agent that you are comfortable working with.
| Make an appointment with your mortgage loan officer to get
pre-approved. This will give you an idea of the price range of homes to look
at. It can also make an offer more attractive to a seller if they know you
already qualify for the loan.
| Let your Real Estate Agent know what price range you are looking in
and any amenities you desire to have included. They can then prepare a list of
home listings that fit these criteria.
| Make sure to preview at least 5 houses before making any offers.
| When you are interested in making an offer, request a second
showing.
| When requesting information from a lender, be sure to ask for any
related costs in addition to the interest rate. |
| | | | | |
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| |
|
