Buying A Home Shopping For Carpet Carpet Stain Removal Guide Removing Stains From Clothing How To Avoid Being Ripped Off by Unethical Contractors! Directory Of Consumer Assistance!

	Before making a trip to your local flooring store: Draw a simple outline of the room(s) and where the room entrances are located. Carefully measure the room(s) you want to cover with new flooring. Use a metal measuring tape and write down both the width and length of the room(s). Be sure to include closets and any other areas that will need flooring. Make a note of what are the adjoining rooms and what flooring is currently in those areas. Make a note about how much natural sunlight enters the room which direction the room faces and any sliding patio doors. If possible make a note of what is under the existing flooring? (Sometimes if you have an forced-air heating system with in-floor heating ducts you can pull up the heat vent cover and look inside to get an idea as to what is really underneath your existing flooring.)
	Whenever possible take along any furniture wallpaper and drapery fabrics from the room(s).
	Decide what you want done with existing baseboard and moldings.
	Think about answers to these questions to help you select the right floor for your needs: How much traffic does this room get each day? What is the room used for? How many children and pets do you have? Do you have a certain color in mind? What are your personal expectations for the flooring? How long do you want it to last?
	Be sure to ask if the price quoted includes: all subfloor preparation all installation costs removal of existing flooring if needed moving of all furniture and appliances all necessary materials for installing your new floor.
	Ask about the installers: Are they independent mechanics or do they work for the store? Ask who's insurance covers installation errors? Ask if all the installation materials are the manufacturer's recommended products so the warranty will not be voided.
	Before choosing a floor have the salesperson review with you the manufacturer's warranty information as well as the manufacturer's care and maintenance procedures. Keep a copy of both brochures for your reference.
	Be sure to get all quotes in writing including amount of flooring needed and a rough diagram of how they will install the flooring and where all seams will fall.
	Be sure to understand who is responsible for removing toilets portable dishwashers and any other fixed room fixtures.

	Immediately blot up as much of the liquid stain as possible using a soft white absorbent material like a towel or napkin. Though most of the carpets produced today are treated with stain-resistant treatments no carpet can be said to be completely stain-proof. And longer the stain remains in the carpet more permanently it sets into it.
	Scrape away the solid or semi-solid stain using a blunt spatula or spoon. Never use a knife as it's sharp edges could harm the pile fibers.
	Never scrub or brush a stain; scrubbing can harm the fibers and have the adverse reaction of making the stain set in to the carpet or rug.
	Vacuum away as much of the solid stain as possible.
	Pretest the spot removal agent on an inconspicuous area of the carpet. Follow the instructions carefully. Apply a few drops to each color in the carpet. Press a clean white towel or napkin lightly over it for approximately 30 seconds. Check both the towel (or napkin) and the carpet for color transfer color change  or any other damage. Try another spot removal if you notice any change.
	To clean the spot apply a small amount of spot removal agent to the soft white absorbent material and gently apply to the stain working from the edges towards the center of the spot to prevent it from spreading. Continue as long as the stain is getting transferred onto the towel. Apply more solution to a fresh area on the towel and repeat the process as long as the stain is being removed. Patience is a virtue as far as this step is concerned!
	In cases where you need to apply more than one spot removal  agent in a sequence continue applying the first spot removal agent as long as there is any improvement; then move on to the next one.
	After the spill has been removed completely rinse out the affected area with water and blot dry to remove the cleaning solution completely as any residue may attract soil and cause damage to the carpet. To effectively blot up the water you may use clean dry towels weighed down by flat heavy objects like a book; keep changing the towel as they become saturated.
	Do not to overwet the area. Overwetting of carpets while cleaning may cause damage to the carpet.

Important!  If you have a stain resistant carpet call us at Classic Services for special instructions.

Animal Accidents -If necessary remove any solid matter. Blot up liquids by placing dry towels over the problem area and apply pressure with your foot. Repeat until the carpet is as dry as possible. Apply Formula 2 according to directions and let dry completely. Finish with Formula 3. If a color change has occurred call Classic Services at (609) 953-0472.

Beverages -With a teaspoon apply a small amount of clear cold water. Blot up moisture with a dry white unstarched cloth. If any spot remains apply Formula 1 followed by Formula 3. For coffee and tea use Formula 1 followed with Formula 2.

Blood - Apply a small amount of cold water with a teaspoon. Blot up moisture with a dry white unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1. If a yellow spot results apply a few drops of peroxide and let stand for about three minutes. Then apply Formula 2 according to directions.

Butter & Other Fats - Apply Formula 4 with a teaspoon. Wipe with dry white unstarched cloth.

Chewing Gum - Apply Formula 4 to the gum and let stand four minutes. Use a spoon to lift gum from carpet. If it still sticks repeat the treatment. Follow up with Formula 1.

Cosmetics - Apply Formula 4 followed by Formula 1. If necessary apply Formula 2.

Food - Scrape off as much as possible with a spoon. Apply Formula 4 with a teaspoon and wipe with a dry white unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1.

Fruit Juice - Wipe the area with a clean white unstarched cloth moistened with cold water. Apply Formula 1 and follow up with Formula 3.

Grease - Apply Formula 4 and wipe with dry white unstarched cloth. Repeat application. If spot remains use Formula 1.

Ice Cream and Deserts - Moisten a clean white unstarched cloth with cold water and wipe the area. Then apply Formula 1.

Ink (Except Ball Point) - Ink spots vary in difficulty depending upon the composition of the ink. Too much detergent and water can cause the spot to spread. Use white tissue to absorb as much ink as possible. Then sponge the area with a damp white unstarched cloth working from the edges of the spot toward the center. Repeat with fresh cloths then apply Formula 1. Repeat until spot is gone.

If a brown or yellow spot is left this indicates that the ink contains iron. Please call us at Classic Services. Professionals should also remove a very large ink spot. But even they cannot guarantee that permanent ink stains can be removed.

Ink (Ball Point) - Apply Formula 4 and sponge with a dry white unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1.

Nail Polish & Household Cement - Use nail polish remover to remove these spots. Follow by using Formula 1.

CAUTION: Before applying nail polish remover to the spot usa a small carpet sample or inconspicuous place to test the carpet. Nail polish remover can damage some carpet by creating color changes or fiber distortion.

Oil - In cases of large amounts of oil the most practical remedy is to call us at Classic Services. A small spot can be cleaned with Formula 4 applied with a teaspoon. Wipe with dry white unstarched cloth. Repeat if needed. Then apply Formula 1.

Paint & Varnish  - Large spills should be cleaned by Classic Services. Call immediately after the accident happens. For small spills of fresh latex paint use Formula 1. For oil-based paint apply a few drops of turpentine or mineral spirits use a teaspoon and blot with a dry white unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 4 then Formula 1. Any paint that has dried is almost impossible to remove.

Sugar & Candy  - Scrape off surface with a dull knife. Wipe with cold water using a clean white unstarched cloth. Follow with Formula 1.

Wax - Small wax spots can sometimes be removed using Formula 4. For heavy wax build up place a dry white unstarched towel over the affected area and lightly touch it with a warm iron. As the wax melts it will be absorbed into the towel. Sometimes it will be necessary to change to another towel depending on how much wax there is to be removed. Be careful not to overheat and melt synthetic carpeting.

For help with any stains not mentioned here please contact a reputable carpet cleaner.

NOTICE:  We cannot be held responsible for damage to carpet caused by using  these formula

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Stain Removal Guide

Disclaimer: This information is designed to help you remove your stains.  Before using any chemical cleaners on your carpet test it in on a small sample or inconspicuous place to test the fabric.  We  cannot be held responsible for any damage caused by using any of the following formulas.

Here we tell you how to remove everyday stains from candle wax chocolate and lipstick to gravy salad dressing and red wine. In most cases your professional drycleaner can easily remove these stains if you point them out.

Caution:

1. Stain removal is best accomplished when the stain is still fresh. Do not put anything away when it is stained or soiled.

2. You can often remove small stains satisfactorily by home methods. We offer this guide to help you do so but it is generally better to let your drycleaner do the work when . . . the stains are numerous or cover a large area they require dry cleaning chemicals not available to the consumer the fabric is fragile or highly sized by the manufacturer you are not sure what caused the stain you are unsure whether the garment is colorfast 

3. Blot don't rub. Rubbing can cause abrasion and damage the finish of your fabric.

4. Always read and follow the care instructions on the garment's label. Follow these General Rules for stain removal.

5. Never use nail polish remover on acetate triacetate or modacrylic as they will dissolve.

Click here for a list of  local dry cleaners who are qualified professionals at removing stains!

Common Stains

	Butter - Butter is an oily substance which can best be removed in the dry cleaning process. However for light stains pre-treat with a liquid laundry detergent. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply liquid detergent to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying inspect and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains.
	Candle Wax - Candle wax consists of a wax and a dye both are easily removed by a professional drycleaner. You may be able to remove the wax but removing the dye in the wax without ruining your garment is the hard part.
	For a small area try hardening with ice then removing surface wax with a dull knife. For the remaining wax place stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring the stain. Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with "Shout" or "Spray and Wash"; blot with paper towels. Let dry then launder. Note: If any color remains re-launder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric.
	Chocolate - A drycleaner can pre-treat your garment to easily remove this stain in the drycleaning process. As a home remedy treat the stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains re-launder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric.
	Coffee - Plain or with sugar/sweetener - Your professional drycleaner will use a tannin remover before cleaning. In an emergency situation flush stain immediately with cool water or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Blot don't rub the stain with detergent and launder. Launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar flake or detergents containing natural soap) since soap can make stain permanent.
	(with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is best removed by drycleaning. For a home remedy flush stain immediately with cool water if possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Sponge stain with a drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot don't rub with detergent then launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar flake or detergents containing natural soap) since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Pretreat or soak older stains with an enzyme product then launder.
	Cooking Oil - Light stains can be pretreated with a spray stain remover liquid laundry detergent or a detergent booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying inspect and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains.
	Cream Sauce - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried or old scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash.
	Cheese Sauce - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried or old scrape or bush off any crusted matter and soak for up to several hours in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash.
	Dye Stains - Dye stains can be very difficult to remove. Soak the garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment care label and check for color fastness first. If use of bleach is acceptable soak and then rinse. If the stain remains and the garment is colorfast soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the garment or cause irreversible damage. Therefore it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching it cannot be removed by bleaching and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric. To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minute then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powered bleaches have directions for doing colorfastness tests. There are a number of dye removers such as one from Rit which are available in drug and grocery stores. However color removers will take out fabric colors as well as the stain.
	Gravy - Treat the stain with a prewash spray or pretreat with a product containing enzymes. Launder. If stain remains relaunder with bleach that is safe for the fabric.
	Ink (solvent soluble) - Ink stains can be difficult to impossible to remove. This stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However if you must try it yourself you generally need to act fast to have a chance.
	Sponge the area around the stain with alcohol before applying it directly on the stain. Next place the stain face down on clean white paper towels. Apply alcohol to the back of the stain. Replace towels frequently. Continue until no further ink is removed. Then rinse thoroughly. Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for fabric with bleach safe for fabric.
	Instead of alcohol you could try using drycleaning solvent such as Carbona Energine Goddard's. (Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the product label. These products are toxic.) Also try a hidden inside seam first to be sure the garment dye won't be removed.
	Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. You should be able to find this in areas where package dyes are sold. For stains on colored fabrics check for dye stability in a hidden area before using.
	Ink (permanent) - Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove. This stain is best removed by a professional drycleaner. However if you must try it yourself you generally need to act fast to have a chance. The first step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove excess ink. Allow to dry. Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent (read the directions carefully it is toxic). Allow the fabric to dry.Work a liquid detergent into the stain with your finger. Rinse. Soak the stain in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added. Rinse and repeat if stain is lessening. Launder.
	Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. Follow package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics check for dye fastness in a hidden are before using.
	Lipstick - Place face down on paper towels. Sponge area with drycleaning solvent or use a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels frequently; rinse. Work light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until outline is removed; launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach because it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid chlorine bleach for tough stains if fabrics are colorfast to bleach.
	Make-up - Place face down on paper towels. Sponge area with drycleaning solvent or use a prewash soil and stain remover. Replace towels frequently; rinse. Work light-duty liquid detergent into the stain until outline is removed; launder. Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach because it is less damaging to colors and fabric. Use liquid chlorine bleach for tough stains if fabrics are colorfast to bleach.
	Mildew - Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth darkness and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cellulosic fiber and can also damage manufactured fibers causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers and fabrics.
	To treat mildew first brush or shake off mildewed area. Pretreat stain with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in hot water with heavy duty detergent and bleach safe for fabric. Let dry in the sun. Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluid i.e. Carbona Energine Goddard's (but carefully read and follow the instructions on the label these are extremely toxic).
	Milk - Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried or old scrape or bush off and crusted matter and soak in cold water using a detergent or an enzyme presoak. Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash. On dryclean only items see your local drycleaner.
	Nail Polish - For stains from nail polish apply nail polish remover to the back of the stain while laying the fabric on white absorbent towels. Replace towels frequently. Then rinse and launder. Never use nail polish remover on acetate triacetate or modacrylic as they will dissolve.
	Return to index of stains.
	Odors - Your professional drycleaner can remove most odors in the normal process of drycleaning. For washable garments most odors should be removed by normal laundering. For stubborn odors sprinkle the clothes with baking soda let stand and then vacuum.
	Perspiration - Perspiration if allowed to stay in fabric will permanently stain and weaken the fabric. Aluminum chlorides in antiperspirants will also weaken the fabric under the arms. Controlled use of antiperspirants and frequent washings immediately after wear can minimize this type of damage. Wearing an undershirt or perspiration pads can also keep stains off your shirts or blouses.
	These types of stains can be difficult to remove. And the build-up of aluminum chloride or zinc salts may be impossible to remove. Old stains are more difficult to treat because they have been set particularly from being heated in the dryer. For washable fabric treat light stains with a liquid detergent and then launder. Pretreat heavy stains with a prewash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes. Launder using an all-fabric bleach. If fabric has discolored you might try treating fresh stains with ammonia and old stains with vinegar.
	Rust - Removing rust stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be removed in normal laundering. Your professional drycleaners has access to rust removing chemicals that are not available to the consumer.
	Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a retail rust remover. Follow package instructions. Do not let dry between applications. Rinse thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry detergent and oxygen bleach following directions.
	Do not use chlorine bleach chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent.
	Salad Dressing (oil-based)- Most oil-based stains can be easily removed by your professional drycleaner. In an emergency light stains can be pretreated with a spray stain remover liquid laundry detergent or a detergent booster. Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning liquid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for that fabric. Before drying inspect and repeat the treatment and washing if the stain remains.
	Smoke Soot - Your drycleaner has special odor-neutralizing chemicals to make your garments smell clean and fresh. At home shake off excess soot outdoors. Launder in washing machine using a heavy-duty phosphate-based detergent or heavy-duty liquid as recommended by manufacturer one cup of water conditioner and 1/2 cup of all-fabric bleach. Use water setting appropriate for the fabric. Air dry. Inspect for smoke odor. Repeat as necessary. Three or four washes may be needed for cottons and cotton blends.
	Tar - Don't try to remove this stain at home. Drycleaners have solvents to dissolve tar that are not available for home use.
	Tea (plain or with sugar/sweetener) - Your professional drycleaner will use a tannin remover before cleaning. In an emergency situation flush stain immediately with cool water; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Blot don't rub the stain with detergent and launder. Launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar flake or detergents containing natural soap) since soap can make stain permanent.
	(with cream only) - Cream is an oily substance that is best removed by drycleaning. For a home remedy flush stain immediately with cool water if possible; or soak for 30 minutes in cool water. Sponge stain with a drycleaning solvent. Air dry. Blot don't rub with detergent then launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar flake or detergents containing natural soap) since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Pretreat or soak older stains with an enzyme product then launder.
	Urine - If the care label in your garment says Dryclean-only do not attempt a home remedy. On washable fabrics soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with prewash stain remover liquid laundry detergent or a paste of powdered detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric using a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar flake or detergents containing natural soap) since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
	Wine - Your drycleaner uses special chemicals to remove the tannin found in red wine from your garments. At home soak stain in cool water. Pretreat with prewash stain remover liquid laundry detergent or a paste of powdered detergent and water. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric using a bleach safe for that fabric. Do not use soap (bar flake or detergents containing natural soap) since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove. Note: Older stains might respond to treatment with an enzyme product then laundering.

	Make sure that the contractor has and established place of business.
	Call the Division of Consumer Affairs Action Line at (201) 648-3295 to check out the firm's outstanding complaint record.
	Ask for credit references.
	Ask for copies of insurance.
	Get a written statement that all building code requirements will be met and denote who will be responsible for obtaining building permits.
	Ask for the names of at least two satisfied customers.
	Get at least two estimates.
	Be suspicious of bids that are unrealistically to low.
	Be wary of contracts that permit the use of "equivalent" materials.
	Don't cut corners with cheap materials or "bargain" prices.
	Don't pay in full for any work in advance.
	Be sure that the contractor's guarantees for covers workmanship and materials.
	Before signing the contract read the fine print and make sure everything is in writing!

	Maryland Remodelers Assc. -- (609) 365-NJRA
	Burlington County Office of Consumer Affairs -- (609) 265-5190
	Camden County Office of Consumer Affairs -- (609) 757-8397
	Gloucester County Office of Consumer Affairs -- (609) 853-3349
	Maryland Division of Consumer Affairs  (201) 648-3622

	When purchasing a home look through the open house listings to get a feel for home pricing by size and neighborhood.
	Select a Real Estate Agent that you are comfortable working with.
	Make an appointment with your mortgage loan officer to get pre-approved. This will give you an idea of the price range of homes to look at. It can also make an offer more attractive to a seller if they know you already qualify for the loan.
	Let your Real Estate Agent know what price range you are looking in and any amenities you desire to have included. They can then prepare a list of home listings that fit these criteria.
	Make sure to preview at least 5 houses before making any offers.
	When you are interested in making an offer request a second showing.
	When requesting information from a lender be sure to ask for any related costs in addition to the interest rate.